Taf Coffee Roasters
This week we’re going further than we’ve ever gone to find a Roaster. We’ve traveled to Athens, Greece to taste coffee roasted by Taf.
Taf sources Single Estate coffee. Taf notes, “Single estate is a coffee that originates from a specific farm, an individual producer/grower, famous for its high quality and for the value that it creates without any negative effects to third persons”. At Djäkne, our fascination with coffee focuses on the unique flavors of Single Origin coffee - Origin denoting how the environment of a growing region influences flavor (i.e. the terroir of a coffee farm) and Single Estate coffee adds a second aspect to our Coffee fascination. The term ‘Estate’ lends a voice to the commerce which provides the architectural structure of the coffee industry. Estate speaks to not only the literal estate which a coffee was grown on but also to the transactions and various points of trade a coffee passes through as a global commodity. In short, the coffee was Roasted in Greece by Taf, but the seeds roasted were grown on specific Estates located elsewhere.
Taf crafts coffee. The craft of coffee is exhibited in and by flavors which arrive in the cup. Taf’s approach to Coffee focuses upon quality. The discussion of Quality is difficult, but by quality we are speaking of characteristics which compose the intrinsic flavor of a coffee. The culture of specialty coffee celebrates quality by discussing the flavors of coffee which taste like fruits, herbs, nuts, spices and floral fragrances - flavors which are more than just the generic ‘coffee’ taste. In this manner, ‘Taf’s objective is to communicate the new coffee culture and to transfer the knowledge for high quality coffee’. A ‘high quality coffee’ is a coffee which has a bouquet of aroma and tasting notes and, to be said simply, the more flavors a coffee presents the higher its quality. Taf - a roaster of high quality coffee - roasts in a manner which expresses the subtle qualities inherent to a coffee. Everything amounts to the experience of flavor, or, better still, to the phenomena of flavor which burst from a cup of coffee.
We will be offering three coffees from Taf’s seasonal offerings.
Gitesi is located in the Karongi District of Rwanda’s Western Province. After being hand-picked from the tree, the coffee-cherry seeds were given to the Coffee Washing Station (CWS). This Washing Station is near to the farmers and its proximity holds two complimentary benefits. The first is that the quality of the coffee doesn’t diminish from having to be transported a far distance. The second is a result of the first benefit, with the retained quality the farmers are compensated for the quality of their beans. The washing station opened in 2005 and became fully-operational in 2010 which allows the farmers of the Kopakika association to sell their beans and be ‘sourced’ as specialty coffee. This coffee is of the Bourbon varietal. The Bourbon varietal is, as the institute for World Coffee Research notes, “One of the most culturally and genetically important Coffea arabica varieties in the world, known for excellent quality in the cup at the highest altitudes” (link below). After wet and dry processing the notes of this coffee are floral, sweet candy, pepper, caramel, and black tea in the finish.
Nicaragua, Las Delicias
In 2017, this coffee was 4th runner up for a Cup of Excellence award. The COE award is “the most prestigious competition and auction for high quality coffees. The level of scrutiny that Cup of Excellence coffees undergo is unmatched anywhere in the specialty coffee industry” (link below). A unique aspect of this coffee is it being a Java varietal. The Java varietal caught its name when they coffee plant was brought from Ethiopia to the Indonesian island of Java by the Dutch. Then, in the early 90’s, the variety found its way into Central America (namely, Costa Rica, Panama and Nicaragua). A short name for this variety is JavaNica, “an interesting alternative to the Geisha, which high cup quality but is more resilient for small farmers with better tolerance of coffee leaf rust and CBD” (link below). With a name that alludes to dark notes, this cup actually presents tasting notes of white tea, grapes, peach, and citrus.
Espresso - Costa Rica, Granitos De Ortiz Esperanza
The Martinez Calderon family owns the micromill ‘Granitos De Ortiz’. This mill processes coffees from five farms: the 2000 Ortíz (2000 masl), the 1900 Ortíz (1900 masl), la Granadilla (1800 masl), la Casa (1750 masl), and the Nery (1700 masl). The varietals of this coffee are Red & Yellow Catuai. Catuai is a cross between the highly productive Mundo Novo variety and the compact Caturra variety. Together, these two give the Catuaí a ‘dwarf’ character and a high productivity. The Red and Yellow are the colors which the cherry of this plant may be, Catuaí has two ‘types’. Nonetheless, the Catuaí comes from the term ‘multo mom’ in the Guarani language, meaning ‘very good’. In the coffee world this translates to knowing that Catuaí delivers a reliably balanced and flavorful cup of coffee. The flavors of this coffee are noted as red fruits, plum, and toffee. Now part of this I will lend to the coffee varietal and impact of origin, yet Costa Rica is known for their experimental processing methods which place the country at the forefront of coffee innovations. This coffee is the Black Honey method (link below). The two methods of coffee processing discussed are Natural and Washed and, the honey processing method lands between these two methods. The coffee fruit is not entirely washed from the cherry seed nor is the fruit flesh left around the seed when dried. The honey method leaves some of the flesh on but not all and the ‘black’ note hints towards the fact that this coffee is dried in the shade. Very excited to have be serving this coffee as espresso!
We would like to extend a big thank you to Taf Coffee!
post by Federico