This week we are ordering coffee from a roaster that is not in Malmö nor outside of Sweden, Morgon Coffee Roasters is located in Göteborg, Sverige.
“We work with special coffee.
It’s a product of extensive care and dedication, passed down from several generations. We want to honour that work by interfering as little as possible, roasting carefully to bring out, and not weigh down the flavours. And by doing so, the coffee can tell its own story - coloured by its own heritage.
Every coffee has an address, we’re just the people helping to tell its story”
We will feature four of their filter coffees:
Ethiopia, Testi Adorsi
“This lot comes from the Adorsi Testi washing station in Aricha and its neighbouring small family plots of land. Aricha, located in the Yirgacheffe region, boasts gorgeous hills of lush green, perfect for growing coffee. Along those hills, at a stunning 2150 meters above sea level, is where the cherries of this lot has been growing and taken care of. The high altitude combined with the mineral rich and fertile soil along with the attention to detail and care at the processing station is some of the many things that makes this coffee so special. Super sweet and with deliciously juicy notes of peach and honeydew - This gem of a coffee immediately stood out when we were deciding which coffees to purchase. The complexity, high sweetness and balanced acidity comes together beautifully to show you just why we’re always excited when we can offer you fresh crop coffee from Ethiopia, and Yirgacheffe and Aricha in particular”
Variety: Heirloom & Kurume
Altitude: 2150 m.a.s.l.
Harvested: January 2019
Taste notes: Sweet and structured with notes of peach and honeydew
El Salvador, Gilberto Baraona
“The farm Los Pirineos has been run by the Baraona family for over a century. Since 1890 they have been growing coffee at the top of the Tecapa volcano in Usulatan. Today it’s Gilberto Baraona who mans the helm at the farm and that’s where we first met him in 2014. Gilberto invited us to his home for barbecue and a cupping in his kitchen and besides his hospitality, he stands out as a multiple winner of Cup of Excellence in El Salvador. The growing conditions in volcanic soil and with cold nights make the maturation of this Pacamara variety slow and flavour development rich and complex.”
Altitude: 1350 m.a.s.l.
Harvested: March 2019
Taste notes: Elegant and velvety with notes of apricot and caramel
Costa Rica, Carlos Montero
“The Montero family have been producing coffee for three generations. [...] In Tarrazu, Carlos and his family are all about community. A lot of the neighbouring producers see them as visionaries and leaders of the Tarrazu specialty coffee movement and look to them for inspiration and advice, which Carlos is always happy to give”
Processing: White Honey
Altitude: 1800 m.a.s.l.
Harvested: March 2019
Taste notes: Structured and creamy with notes of chocolate biscuit and ripe plum
“The season for Kenyan coffees is both anticipated and exciting for coffee lovers like us. The classic profile with heavy juicy notes of black currant and rhubarb are usually the most desired. We have however noticed a shift in profiles coming out of Kenya lately. Coffee Berry Disease and Leaf Rust, as well as climate change, have hit the coffee community hard. With this comes challenges and the need to adapt and overcome. That’s why we are seeing more varietals like Batian in our Kenyan coffee. Resistant to both diseases, high yielding and with a great cup score, it’s becoming increasingly popular. This is of course great news, but at the same time it’s changing the profile of the coffee. We’re seeing more citrus, apple and floral notes, less currant and rhubarb. This coffee is a mix of the typical Kenyan varieties SL28, SL34 and the resilient new-comer Batian. This gives us the best of the three: Notes of sirupy blackberry and complex and bright florals - as well as a more sustainable cup of coffee”
Variety: SL28, SL34, Batian
Altitude: 1800 m.a.s.l.
Harvested: December 2018
Taste notes: Sirupy and complex with notes of blackberries and rose petals
This week we will be featuring Piha, a coffee roaster in Bordeaux, France.
Colombia, Granja La Esperanza
Mug profile: Body with honey syrup and sugar cane. Its cherry aromas make it one of our favorite coffees every year.
Origin: Valle de Cauca - Caicedonia - Colombia
Producer: Rigoberto Herrera
Variety: Red Bourbon
Altitudes: 1500 - 1700 m.
Harvest: January 2019
Tasting Notes: CITRUS - GRAPEFRUIT - HONEY - MOLASSES
Ethiopia, Anfilloo Forêt de Suddi Omi
Mug profile: The nose is fine and characteristic of Wallagga coffees with aromas of honey, sweet spices and flowers. In the mouth the body is full and honeyed with floral and gourmand flavors of hazelnuts and cane sugar.
Origin: Terroir of Anfilloo Nekemte
Producer: Cooperative Latu Gudina
Altitudes: 1800 - 2400 m.
Tasting Notes: HONEY - SWEET SPICES - FLOWERS
El Salvador, Finca Noruega
Mug profile: Complex and aromatic
Origin: Apaneca - Ahuachapán - El Salvador
Producers: Morpho - Sigfredo Corado, David Veladès, Manuel Olivares
Altitude: 1600 m
Tasting Notes: CARAMEL - PRUNE - CHERRY
This week we are featuring coffee from a roaster in Budapest, Hungary.
We have two for filter and one as espresso.
The secret to this exceptional and very special lot is wood, which is usually NOT the ‘secret ingredient’ you are looking for in a specialty coffee. Now this is something totally different: this nano lot of Marsellesa, Mundo Maya and Evaluna Hybrids has been aged in parchment for three weeks in whisky barrels, repurposed from the Brown Forman Group resulting in a complex, boozy cup.
Tasting notes: Blue grape, rum punch, walnut
Ethiopia, Ana Sora
The Guji Zone of Ethiopia was previously categorized as a sub-region of Sidamo, but has proven itself distinct and gained rep- utation because of its unique and differentiating flavour profiles. This wet processed batch of several heirloom varieties comes from Israel Degfa’s own plantation named Ana Sora.
Tasting notes: Nectarine, Lime, Bergamont
Costa Rica, Perla Negra
Oscar Chacón is a true innovator in the Costa Rican coffee-producing scene. In addition to his achievements in natural and honey processing, he was among the first to switch to fully organic farming. Oscar’s newly introduced coffee is a blend of natu- ral-processed Caturra and Catuai varieties, dried on raised African beds.
Tasting notes: Cranberry, Blackberry, Dark Chocolate
This week our coffee comes from Kollektiv 22, a Roasterie located beneath the mountain Stol in Bled, Slovenia
“In our family, coffee has always brought people together; at breakfasts, after skiing to chat with friends, or sometimes guests stopping by from out of town. In the Alps, coffee is key to mastering the mountains. The timeless and universal appeal of coffee makes it the perfect pillar for a "kolektiv". At Kolektiv 22, we want to honour the tradition of coffee. We then combine it with the best that this part of the world has to offer. The product is the best of classic recipes of 1920s Viennese style, Italian or Turkish influences, all roasted in the crisp Alpine air” (link below).
Coffee boils differently at altitude, and these immersive brewing methods require that the water which the ground-coffee beans are submerged in needs to be raised to a boil. The closest I've come to finding a coffee-style, a coffee brewing method which isn't from the 1920's is called 'cowboy coffee'. A round bottom flask is placed in a heat bath and the water & coffee slurry is brought to a boil. This is technique of making coffee by simultaneously bringing water to a boil with ground-coffee is that these methods of brewing have in common.
Click Here to see a brief interview with the Roaster of Kolektiv 22
What I found fascinating is where this coffee roaster is located, Bled: “The Alpine pearl on the edge of the Julian Alps with the glacier lake and thermal lake water, island and a castle on the cliff. The lively rhythm of the small lakeside town is calmed by the mild climate and the beauty of mountains reflecting on the lake's surface, and the surroundings offer excellent conditions for pleasant relaxation or an active vacation in any season” (link below).
We will be featuring two coffees from Kolektiv 22 this week, one as Filter and one as Espresso.
Filter: Papua New Guinea
Origin: Eastern Highlands, Papua New Guinea
Producer: Smallholder producers
Altitude: 1100 m.a.s.l.
Variety: Arusha, Blue Mountain, Typica
Harvest period: May - August
Classification: PSC A/X
Cupping notes: Milk chocolate, slight notes of peach, floral.
This coffee is contrast in a cup, the extreme ends of flavor: One bright and sweet while the other is savory and deep.
Region: La Paz District, Marcala, Honduras
Producer: Smallholder producers
Altitude: 1200 – 1650 m.a.s.l.
Variety: Catuai, Bourbon, Typica, Lempira, Ihcafe 90
Harvest period: December – March
Classification: Strictly High Grown
Cupping notes: Chocolate, nuts, sweet, round body, slight berries.
Thank You Kolektiv 22
post by Federico
This week our coffee is coming from a Roaster in Amsterdam, Netherlands: Whitelabel Coffee.
On Filter we will be featuring two coffees from Whitelabel:
1) The Guatemala Waykan comes from the Huehuetenango region. The cherries grown at 1600-1800 masl and were collected as a part of the 2019 crop from various smallholder farmers. This is a washed processed coffee that presents tasting notes of milk chocolate, apricot, laurel and honey liquorice. (link below)
2) Kenya, Gakuyuini AA comes from the Kirinyaga region. The cherries grown at 1700 masl and were collected as a part of the 2019 crop from the Thirikwa farmers cooperative society in Gakuyuini. This is a washed processed coffee that presents tasting notes of fresh lemon, coconuts, blueberry jam and rosemary. (link below)
As Espresso we will be serving the Ethiopia, Gora Kone which comes out of the Sidamo region of Ethiopia. The cherries were collected as a part of the 2019 crop at the Gora Kone washing station and is a washed processed coffee grown at 1900 - 2050 masl. The varietals of this crop are mixed heirloom and support juicy tasting notes of peach, fresh strawberries and whipped cream. (link below)
This week we are featuring a roaster from Zagreb, Croatia: Cogito Coffee - Specialty Coffee Roasters.
Djäkne will be featuring three of their coffees, one as espresso and two as filter.
The way we have been featuring the coffee from a roaster may be thought of in this manner: One filter coffee will be bright and acidic and, the other, round with deep sweetness. The coffee on espresso extends and complements the flavors found in the filter coffee.
On Filter we will have their Costa Rican Don Eli La Pastora Tarrazú as well as their Ethiopian Anasora Kelloo Lot #2.
Tasted from a 3-Cup Chemex with the Brew Ratio of 21g coffee to 315g HOH - The Costa Rican (grind setting at 23 on the Wilfa Uniform) has a thin body and flavors of granny smith apple, cardamom, agave, corn flake and the Ethiopian (grind setting at 25 on the Wilfa Uniform) has a round body, with notes of apricot, honey, chamomile, and gives a dry floral finish.
As Espresso we will be featuring their Colombian El Encanto. This presents notes of orange peel, cherry, clove, and nougat.
Coffee is comprised of relationships: ecological, social, economic, international… To simplify the massive web constitutive of the coffee industry, and to make Djäkne a node of specialty coffee in Malmö, we are glad to announce that we will be cycling through our ‘featured’ list of roasters. The list will feature roasters we have ordered from before but we will also continue to add to our ever-growing list of featured roasters. Djäkne will continue to seek the unheard of roasters which are found in the most unlikely of places, the ‘hidden gems’ of the coffee industry. We look for these mirco-roasters more than the already known ones because these Roasters that have an original approach to coffee, see flavor as something more than just flavor and, in this manner, do their roasting thing unconventionally - uncompromising. They emphasize and express - that is, they advocate for - the subtle flavors that make each coffee a unique experience. We seek roasters that source unique coffees and roast with the flavor intrinsic to the bean in mind. To summarize, repeat and clarify the message of this paragraph, this week we are featuring Cogito Coffee at Djäkne Kaffebar.
As a final note to the blog post this week, I would like to start a mailing list for the Coffee Community in Malmö. In this I will provide a list of the roasters that will be featured at Djäkne throughout the month. Additionally, I could order a specific coffee from the roaster for you to be shipped with our coffee to the shop. And, I would like for this Community to be a mode of communication so that if you have a Specialty Coffee Roaster that you would like to suggest to be featured at Djäkne, we would love to check them out!
How to get involved with the Djäkne Coffee Community:
- If you would like to suggest an EU roaster to us please send an email to firstname.lastname@example.org or tag the roaster on our instagram.
- If you would like to be part of our ordering list please stop by the shop and sign-up with the Barista.
- If you would like to reserve a bag of beans from a roaster stop by the shop or send an email to federico@djäkne.se
Post by Federico
This week our featured roaster is Jonas Reindl Coffee Roasters from Vienna, Austria.
We are featuring three of their coffees, one as espresso and two as filter.
Espresso: Nicaragua, Finca Los Alpes
Finca Los Alpes is a coffee farm located in the Cerro Kilambé natural reserve in the district of Jinotega in Nicaragua. The untouched cloud forest surrounding it is 1800 metres above sea-level and offers the ideal terroir for coffee cultivation. The Caturra and Tipica varieties grow in the shade of the jungle and their taste benefits from the enormous bio-diversity of the area as well as the altitude. All cherries are picked by hand, only when they are ripe. After the fully-washed processing the coffee seeds are transported to the Beneficio, a coffee processing plant, on the backs of donkeys. They are the only mode of transportation that can navigate the difficult three-hour track through the jungle with such a heavy load.
Our founder Philip Feyer has journeyed to see this fascinating place for himself and to learn from the farmers first-hand. The producer Ulrich Salamun, an Austrian operating several coffee farms in Nicaragua, is a welcoming host. He has devoted himself to sustainable farming and Direct-Trade with partners willing to pay a premium for quality. He has made long-term investments in regional coffee culture, development of school projects, counselling for other farmers and more. We are very proud of this coffee and its transparent supply chain.
Filter: Guatemala, Finca Quejina
Nicolás Ramirez Ramirez owns Finca Quejina, where he grows several varieties of coffee on land that has been in his family for many years. At first it was forest, but it has had coffee planted for a long time now. Coffee is the only crop grown for sale on Quejina. The coffee is picked ripe and depulped the same day, fermented for 18–24 hours, and then washed before bing dried for 3.5–4.5 days, depending on the climate.
Finca Quejina has been in the family for many years, starting with Nicolas' great grandfather. It is nestled in the dense forest of Petatán. Harvesting coffee in this altitude and region presents many difficulties. During the season between the months of Feb-May, Nicolas brings his coffee to the bodega in Huehue. He turns in small lots as they are ready and is very thoughtful with separation of varieties and quality. He hopes to continue to expand his partnerships to purchase more land and improve cultivation of his Caturra, Pache Rojo, Bourbón plants.
Mlima Kenya means Mount Kenya in Swahili and is a blend we curate our selves of the screen sizes 14 and 15. When you have a great coffee in Kenya one lot (outturn) from a specific Factory (washing station) is divided into different screen sizes (grades). Typically from one lot that cups really well you will access the AA, AB and PB as a premium from the same batch of coffee, but for some weird reason the 14 and 15 are removed and often sold without being properly cleaned up as a lower priced coffee. But thats by tradition, they can actually taste great if you remove all the odd beans etc.
This will normally be a producer blend, and the idea behind this concept is that we cup through the C-grades (screen 14/15) from different lots from the Mount Kenya region that are performing well as e.g. AA’s and AB’s. We make a selection, blend them and get the exporter to do the same preparation on sorting and density grading as they would for a great AA. It will end up as a medium sized lot of a really well performing Kenya at a lower price point than the “higher” grades.
Thank You Jonas Reindl!
Finland is known for being the country in the world with the highest consumption of coffee beverages and this week we are featuring coffee from two Finish coffee roasters: Fruit Coffee Roasters and Good Life Coffee Roasters.
Good Life (Avoid Bad Life)
The reason for us to select coffee from their roastery is two-fold. First, we relate to their opening statement on their website:
Our idea of good coffee is simple: carefully selected highgrade beans combined with precise procedures and a nobullshit take on roasting and brewing. Instead of a well-trimmed romantic reenactment of the artesian 19th century, our coffee is bang on the now. Honest and uncompromising.
The second reason stems from the first and is, quite simply, that one of you, our customers has suggested we look into ordering from this roaster. Once we did a quality check by reviewing their offerings we were stoked with the coffee which has showed up at the shop. We have selected three coffees from the Good Life roastery to have at Djäkne.
Guatemala, Los Robles
This coffee hails from the Huehuetenango region and is a blend of Caturra and Bourbon varietals. This espresso is balanced and round and Good Life labeled the tasting notes as: Milk Chocolate, Tropical Fruit and Balanced. This was a lovely espresso but it was a fan favorite and quickly ran through our hopper. However, we have the following coffees from Good Life available on the shelf and as filter coffee.
Tasting notes of Currents, sweet and juicy.
Tasting notes of Bergamot, Floral, Fruity.
Frukt Coffee Roasters
Frukt is the first European Roaster I ordered coffee from for Djäkne. In the initial order this Honduras, Mabel Moreno (see earlier post on Frukt) was ordered as a filter coffee. However, this time around I’ve ordered the same coffee but to be served as Espresso. Frukt has two
Honduras, Moreno Family (Espresso)
“This fun coffee comes from the Moreno family based in Santa Barbara, Honduras. Coffee is produced by brothers Danny, Miguel, Jesus & Mario Moreno. All sons of late Daniel Moreno. All of them are third generation coffee producers.
This coffee is mixed lot of varieties grown at around 1450-1730 meters above sea level. This coffee is washed processed. After picking, the coffee cherries are sorted, then pulped, fermented, washed and dried on raised beds”.
Tasting notes of Dried Fruit, Hazelnut, and Rich.
Ethiopia, Gute Sodu
“This exciting coffee comes from Guduba washing station based in Guji, Ethiopia. Coffee is produced by small farmers in Hambela Wamena, near town Gute Sodu. This coffee is a mix of Dega and indigenous varieties grown at high altitude of 1900-2100 meters above sea level. Most of the coffee trees in this area are young and no longer than 7 years old.
Farmers deliver coffee cherries to the washing station where the coffee is processed. Coffee is pulped, then fermented for 48-72 hours, washed and dried on raised beds for 10 days”.
Tasting notes of Sparkling, Lemonade, and Floral.
Kenya, Koimbi AA
“This exciting coffee comes from Koimbi Estate based in Muranga, Kenya. Coffee is produced by 800 smallholder members of Weithaga Farmers Cooperative Society. This coffee is a mix of traditional SL28 & SL34 varieties grown at the altitude of 1600-1800 meters above sea level.
Farmers deliver coffee cherries to the Koimbi Estate washing station where the coffee is processed. Coffee is pulped, then fermented in fermentation tanks, washed and dried on raised beds under the sun”.
Tasting notes of Black Currant, Rhubarb, and Floral.
I would like to send a big thank you to both of these Roasters and hope that you will come have a cup of their delicious coffee!
Post by Federico
This week we will be featuring coffee from a roaster in Barcelona, Spain: Nomad.
From Merriam-Webster’s dictionary, Nomad: a member of a people who have no fixed residence but move from place to place usually seasonally and within a well-defined territory (link below). The word Nomad relates to coffee through a myth known to any and all who are coffee enthusiasts.
In Ethiopia there are semi-nomadic pastoralists, cattle herders. Of these people, the nomad we are concerned with is the one who is regarded as the founder of coffee, Kaldi. By ‘founder’ what I mean to say is that he was the one who discovered coffee. However, it was not actually Kaldi himself who discovered coffee but rather his goats who were the first to taste coffee. The long and short of the story is that, as Kaldi herded his goats across the mountains he noticed that they became energetic after eating the fruit from a bush (link below). He then collected some of the fruits and added them to his stew that evening. This stew was the first brewing of coffee. And, from then on, we’ve followed the same curiosity of Kaldi by picking, roasting, and brewing and ingesting coffee in various ways.
This weeks Coffee offerings:
Bolivia, Benito (Espresso):
"The Benito Huallpa farm is located north of the department of La Paz. Your farm has the Bird Friendly seal for contributing and maintaining the habitat of native and migratory birds. This means that it is a farm with the shade of millenary trees that Benito takes care of to maintain this ecosystem. Thank to this shade and the maintenance of the farm with organic fertilizers made by himself make his coffee of excellent quality. The slow maturation of the cherries causes them to gain density and sweetness in the cup”.
Tasting Notes: Blackberry, Milk Chocolate, Grapefruit
“For the first in Nomad we have a coffee from the Duromina washing station. It has resisted these years but without doubt, this year has been the best washed coffee of Ethiopia that we have tasted. Its notes of blueberries and strawberry with a marked floral aroma that reminds us of lavender have captivated us and we want to share this with you”.
Tasting Notes: Blueberry, Strawberry, Lavender
“The Simbi coffee washing station is located in the district of Huye, in the southern province of Rwanda, and serves 1,850 small coffee farmers. Simbi is a privately owned washing station operated by Abdul Rudahunga, who was inspired to enter the coffee business by his grandmother. She was also a coffee producer and one of the few rural Rwandans who toasted and enjoyed their own coffee as part of their daily routine. The Simbi coffee washing station was built between 2011 and 2012. The 2018 COE, Simbi Coffee, ranked 17th with 87.62 in 28 winning lots of 150 selected lots nationwide. The cherries are selected by hand, washed, sorted well after the fermentation stage, sun-dried in African beds and selected by hand to ensure that only the best coffee beans are processed. The washing station was strengthened in 2013 with the construction of a 300-tonne-per-season cherry processing plant and a pulper machine of 2.8 tons per hour. After the newly harvested cherry is pulped, the coffee is fermented in tanks with water and then the grains are classified by density using classification channels filled with water. The wet parchment is dried under cover for 24 hours before being transferred to the raised beds for an average of 15 days. During that period, the coffee is cleaned by hand from defective grains by an army of absolutely meticulous women”.
Tasting notes: Tangerine, Apricot, Orange Blossom, Honey
Kenya, Faith Estates:
“Faith Estate is located in Kirinyaga County, around 150 km north of Kenya’s capital Nairobi. It is owned by Cecilia Wanjiku Haniel. After picking, Cecilia is using a small drum pulper to remove the skin of the coffee cherry, before coffee undergoes a dry fermentation for around 24 hours. After fermentation, the coffee is washed to remove any remaining fruit from the parchment, before the coffee is dried on raised beds, allowing air to flow under and over the parchment. Cecilia is a force to be reckoned with, and as her crop was quite small in 2018/19 season, her coffee was mixed with two other farmers’ coffee from the neighbouring community. This inaugurated a group of farmers that are all pulping their own coffee, and in 2019 they have planned monthly meetings for training and business planning, and has since the start in late 2018 grown to more than 30 farmers in the area”.
Tasting notes: Lychee, Pineapple, Jazmin
We would like to send a big Thank You to Nomad for sourcing and roasting delicious coffee!
Post by Federico
This week our offered coffees were roasted by Five Elephant Coffee Roasters in Berlin.
We chose three coffees:
We are offering their Ethiopia, Biftu Gudina as espresso:
“For the past four years we have been purchasing coffee from the Agaro Region of Western Ethiopia, particularly from Biftu Gudina because of its complex balance of spices and delicate plum sweetness. For the last two years this coffee has stood out on our cupping tables, with its uniqueness and exceptional quality”.
We are offering two of their coffees as Filter coffee: (1) Colombia, Dos Quebradas and, (2) Brazil, Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza.
As Five Elephant describes their coffee from Colombia, “The name of Daimes Polanía Tovar’s finca translates to “two springs”. He says that these waters once held gold and he feels fortunate to have found this property with its golden waters because, before, when he lived in the lowlands, he wasn’t getting any of his coffee into Cadefihuila’s (our allied cooperative in Huila) microlot program. This lot is the first they have accepted and he is rightly proud. We thank him for his hard work and determination”.
Five Elephant describes their involvement with Silvia and the production of their Brazilian Coffee: “Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza in the Mococa region of Brazil is owned by Silvia Barretto and her husband Marcos Croce, who along with their son Felipe, manage the farm. This year we had an active role in some new production techniques, helping Felipe Croce process this coffee as a Washed and fermenting it for 72 hours, before drying it for 15 days on raised beds. To say that we are proud to roast this coffee is an understatement”.
Five Elephant does a superb job of selecting intricate and unique coffees. We’d like to send them a big thank you for allowing us to offer their coffee at Djäkne!
Post by Federico