This week our coffee is coming from a Roaster in Amsterdam, Netherlands: Whitelabel Coffee.
On Filter we will be featuring two coffees from Whitelabel:
1) The Guatemala Waykan comes from the Huehuetenango region. The cherries grown at 1600-1800 masl and were collected as a part of the 2019 crop from various smallholder farmers. This is a washed processed coffee that presents tasting notes of milk chocolate, apricot, laurel and honey liquorice. (link below)
2) Kenya, Gakuyuini AA comes from the Kirinyaga region. The cherries grown at 1700 masl and were collected as a part of the 2019 crop from the Thirikwa farmers cooperative society in Gakuyuini. This is a washed processed coffee that presents tasting notes of fresh lemon, coconuts, blueberry jam and rosemary. (link below)
As Espresso we will be serving the Ethiopia, Gora Kone which comes out of the Sidamo region of Ethiopia. The cherries were collected as a part of the 2019 crop at the Gora Kone washing station and is a washed processed coffee grown at 1900 - 2050 masl. The varietals of this crop are mixed heirloom and support juicy tasting notes of peach, fresh strawberries and whipped cream. (link below)
This week we are featuring a roaster from Zagreb, Croatia: Cogito Coffee - Specialty Coffee Roasters.
Djäkne will be featuring three of their coffees, one as espresso and two as filter.
The way we have been featuring the coffee from a roaster may be thought of in this manner: One filter coffee will be bright and acidic and, the other, round with deep sweetness. The coffee on espresso extends and complements the flavors found in the filter coffee.
On Filter we will have their Costa Rican Don Eli La Pastora Tarrazú as well as their Ethiopian Anasora Kelloo Lot #2.
Tasted from a 3-Cup Chemex with the Brew Ratio of 21g coffee to 315g HOH - The Costa Rican (grind setting at 23 on the Wilfa Uniform) has a thin body and flavors of granny smith apple, cardamom, agave, corn flake and the Ethiopian (grind setting at 25 on the Wilfa Uniform) has a round body, with notes of apricot, honey, chamomile, and gives a dry floral finish.
As Espresso we will be featuring their Colombian El Encanto. This presents notes of orange peel, cherry, clove, and nougat.
Coffee is comprised of relationships: ecological, social, economic, international… To simplify the massive web constitutive of the coffee industry, and to make Djäkne a node of specialty coffee in Malmö, we are glad to announce that we will be cycling through our ‘featured’ list of roasters. The list will feature roasters we have ordered from before but we will also continue to add to our ever-growing list of featured roasters. Djäkne will continue to seek the unheard of roasters which are found in the most unlikely of places, the ‘hidden gems’ of the coffee industry. We look for these mirco-roasters more than the already known ones because these Roasters that have an original approach to coffee, see flavor as something more than just flavor and, in this manner, do their roasting thing unconventionally - uncompromising. They emphasize and express - that is, they advocate for - the subtle flavors that make each coffee a unique experience. We seek roasters that source unique coffees and roast with the flavor intrinsic to the bean in mind. To summarize, repeat and clarify the message of this paragraph, this week we are featuring Cogito Coffee at Djäkne Kaffebar.
As a final note to the blog post this week, I would like to start a mailing list for the Coffee Community in Malmö. In this I will provide a list of the roasters that will be featured at Djäkne throughout the month. Additionally, I could order a specific coffee from the roaster for you to be shipped with our coffee to the shop. And, I would like for this Community to be a mode of communication so that if you have a Specialty Coffee Roaster that you would like to suggest to be featured at Djäkne, we would love to check them out!
How to get involved with the Djäkne Coffee Community:
- If you would like to suggest an EU roaster to us please send an email to email@example.com or tag the roaster on our instagram.
- If you would like to be part of our ordering list please stop by the shop and sign-up with the Barista.
- If you would like to reserve a bag of beans from a roaster stop by the shop or send an email to federico@djäkne.se
Post by Federico
This week our featured roaster is Jonas Reindl Coffee Roasters from Vienna, Austria.
We are featuring three of their coffees, one as espresso and two as filter.
Espresso: Nicaragua, Finca Los Alpes
Finca Los Alpes is a coffee farm located in the Cerro Kilambé natural reserve in the district of Jinotega in Nicaragua. The untouched cloud forest surrounding it is 1800 metres above sea-level and offers the ideal terroir for coffee cultivation. The Caturra and Tipica varieties grow in the shade of the jungle and their taste benefits from the enormous bio-diversity of the area as well as the altitude. All cherries are picked by hand, only when they are ripe. After the fully-washed processing the coffee seeds are transported to the Beneficio, a coffee processing plant, on the backs of donkeys. They are the only mode of transportation that can navigate the difficult three-hour track through the jungle with such a heavy load.
Our founder Philip Feyer has journeyed to see this fascinating place for himself and to learn from the farmers first-hand. The producer Ulrich Salamun, an Austrian operating several coffee farms in Nicaragua, is a welcoming host. He has devoted himself to sustainable farming and Direct-Trade with partners willing to pay a premium for quality. He has made long-term investments in regional coffee culture, development of school projects, counselling for other farmers and more. We are very proud of this coffee and its transparent supply chain.
Filter: Guatemala, Finca Quejina
Nicolás Ramirez Ramirez owns Finca Quejina, where he grows several varieties of coffee on land that has been in his family for many years. At first it was forest, but it has had coffee planted for a long time now. Coffee is the only crop grown for sale on Quejina. The coffee is picked ripe and depulped the same day, fermented for 18–24 hours, and then washed before bing dried for 3.5–4.5 days, depending on the climate.
Finca Quejina has been in the family for many years, starting with Nicolas' great grandfather. It is nestled in the dense forest of Petatán. Harvesting coffee in this altitude and region presents many difficulties. During the season between the months of Feb-May, Nicolas brings his coffee to the bodega in Huehue. He turns in small lots as they are ready and is very thoughtful with separation of varieties and quality. He hopes to continue to expand his partnerships to purchase more land and improve cultivation of his Caturra, Pache Rojo, Bourbón plants.
Mlima Kenya means Mount Kenya in Swahili and is a blend we curate our selves of the screen sizes 14 and 15. When you have a great coffee in Kenya one lot (outturn) from a specific Factory (washing station) is divided into different screen sizes (grades). Typically from one lot that cups really well you will access the AA, AB and PB as a premium from the same batch of coffee, but for some weird reason the 14 and 15 are removed and often sold without being properly cleaned up as a lower priced coffee. But thats by tradition, they can actually taste great if you remove all the odd beans etc.
This will normally be a producer blend, and the idea behind this concept is that we cup through the C-grades (screen 14/15) from different lots from the Mount Kenya region that are performing well as e.g. AA’s and AB’s. We make a selection, blend them and get the exporter to do the same preparation on sorting and density grading as they would for a great AA. It will end up as a medium sized lot of a really well performing Kenya at a lower price point than the “higher” grades.
Thank You Jonas Reindl!
Finland is known for being the country in the world with the highest consumption of coffee beverages and this week we are featuring coffee from two Finish coffee roasters: Fruit Coffee Roasters and Good Life Coffee Roasters.
Good Life (Avoid Bad Life)
The reason for us to select coffee from their roastery is two-fold. First, we relate to their opening statement on their website:
Our idea of good coffee is simple: carefully selected highgrade beans combined with precise procedures and a nobullshit take on roasting and brewing. Instead of a well-trimmed romantic reenactment of the artesian 19th century, our coffee is bang on the now. Honest and uncompromising.
The second reason stems from the first and is, quite simply, that one of you, our customers has suggested we look into ordering from this roaster. Once we did a quality check by reviewing their offerings we were stoked with the coffee which has showed up at the shop. We have selected three coffees from the Good Life roastery to have at Djäkne.
Guatemala, Los Robles
This coffee hails from the Huehuetenango region and is a blend of Caturra and Bourbon varietals. This espresso is balanced and round and Good Life labeled the tasting notes as: Milk Chocolate, Tropical Fruit and Balanced. This was a lovely espresso but it was a fan favorite and quickly ran through our hopper. However, we have the following coffees from Good Life available on the shelf and as filter coffee.
Tasting notes of Currents, sweet and juicy.
Tasting notes of Bergamot, Floral, Fruity.
Frukt Coffee Roasters
Frukt is the first European Roaster I ordered coffee from for Djäkne. In the initial order this Honduras, Mabel Moreno (see earlier post on Frukt) was ordered as a filter coffee. However, this time around I’ve ordered the same coffee but to be served as Espresso. Frukt has two
Honduras, Moreno Family (Espresso)
“This fun coffee comes from the Moreno family based in Santa Barbara, Honduras. Coffee is produced by brothers Danny, Miguel, Jesus & Mario Moreno. All sons of late Daniel Moreno. All of them are third generation coffee producers.
This coffee is mixed lot of varieties grown at around 1450-1730 meters above sea level. This coffee is washed processed. After picking, the coffee cherries are sorted, then pulped, fermented, washed and dried on raised beds”.
Tasting notes of Dried Fruit, Hazelnut, and Rich.
Ethiopia, Gute Sodu
“This exciting coffee comes from Guduba washing station based in Guji, Ethiopia. Coffee is produced by small farmers in Hambela Wamena, near town Gute Sodu. This coffee is a mix of Dega and indigenous varieties grown at high altitude of 1900-2100 meters above sea level. Most of the coffee trees in this area are young and no longer than 7 years old.
Farmers deliver coffee cherries to the washing station where the coffee is processed. Coffee is pulped, then fermented for 48-72 hours, washed and dried on raised beds for 10 days”.
Tasting notes of Sparkling, Lemonade, and Floral.
Kenya, Koimbi AA
“This exciting coffee comes from Koimbi Estate based in Muranga, Kenya. Coffee is produced by 800 smallholder members of Weithaga Farmers Cooperative Society. This coffee is a mix of traditional SL28 & SL34 varieties grown at the altitude of 1600-1800 meters above sea level.
Farmers deliver coffee cherries to the Koimbi Estate washing station where the coffee is processed. Coffee is pulped, then fermented in fermentation tanks, washed and dried on raised beds under the sun”.
Tasting notes of Black Currant, Rhubarb, and Floral.
I would like to send a big thank you to both of these Roasters and hope that you will come have a cup of their delicious coffee!
Post by Federico
This week we will be featuring coffee from a roaster in Barcelona, Spain: Nomad.
From Merriam-Webster’s dictionary, Nomad: a member of a people who have no fixed residence but move from place to place usually seasonally and within a well-defined territory (link below). The word Nomad relates to coffee through a myth known to any and all who are coffee enthusiasts.
In Ethiopia there are semi-nomadic pastoralists, cattle herders. Of these people, the nomad we are concerned with is the one who is regarded as the founder of coffee, Kaldi. By ‘founder’ what I mean to say is that he was the one who discovered coffee. However, it was not actually Kaldi himself who discovered coffee but rather his goats who were the first to taste coffee. The long and short of the story is that, as Kaldi herded his goats across the mountains he noticed that they became energetic after eating the fruit from a bush (link below). He then collected some of the fruits and added them to his stew that evening. This stew was the first brewing of coffee. And, from then on, we’ve followed the same curiosity of Kaldi by picking, roasting, and brewing and ingesting coffee in various ways.
This weeks Coffee offerings:
Bolivia, Benito (Espresso):
"The Benito Huallpa farm is located north of the department of La Paz. Your farm has the Bird Friendly seal for contributing and maintaining the habitat of native and migratory birds. This means that it is a farm with the shade of millenary trees that Benito takes care of to maintain this ecosystem. Thank to this shade and the maintenance of the farm with organic fertilizers made by himself make his coffee of excellent quality. The slow maturation of the cherries causes them to gain density and sweetness in the cup”.
Tasting Notes: Blackberry, Milk Chocolate, Grapefruit
“For the first in Nomad we have a coffee from the Duromina washing station. It has resisted these years but without doubt, this year has been the best washed coffee of Ethiopia that we have tasted. Its notes of blueberries and strawberry with a marked floral aroma that reminds us of lavender have captivated us and we want to share this with you”.
Tasting Notes: Blueberry, Strawberry, Lavender
“The Simbi coffee washing station is located in the district of Huye, in the southern province of Rwanda, and serves 1,850 small coffee farmers. Simbi is a privately owned washing station operated by Abdul Rudahunga, who was inspired to enter the coffee business by his grandmother. She was also a coffee producer and one of the few rural Rwandans who toasted and enjoyed their own coffee as part of their daily routine. The Simbi coffee washing station was built between 2011 and 2012. The 2018 COE, Simbi Coffee, ranked 17th with 87.62 in 28 winning lots of 150 selected lots nationwide. The cherries are selected by hand, washed, sorted well after the fermentation stage, sun-dried in African beds and selected by hand to ensure that only the best coffee beans are processed. The washing station was strengthened in 2013 with the construction of a 300-tonne-per-season cherry processing plant and a pulper machine of 2.8 tons per hour. After the newly harvested cherry is pulped, the coffee is fermented in tanks with water and then the grains are classified by density using classification channels filled with water. The wet parchment is dried under cover for 24 hours before being transferred to the raised beds for an average of 15 days. During that period, the coffee is cleaned by hand from defective grains by an army of absolutely meticulous women”.
Tasting notes: Tangerine, Apricot, Orange Blossom, Honey
Kenya, Faith Estates:
“Faith Estate is located in Kirinyaga County, around 150 km north of Kenya’s capital Nairobi. It is owned by Cecilia Wanjiku Haniel. After picking, Cecilia is using a small drum pulper to remove the skin of the coffee cherry, before coffee undergoes a dry fermentation for around 24 hours. After fermentation, the coffee is washed to remove any remaining fruit from the parchment, before the coffee is dried on raised beds, allowing air to flow under and over the parchment. Cecilia is a force to be reckoned with, and as her crop was quite small in 2018/19 season, her coffee was mixed with two other farmers’ coffee from the neighbouring community. This inaugurated a group of farmers that are all pulping their own coffee, and in 2019 they have planned monthly meetings for training and business planning, and has since the start in late 2018 grown to more than 30 farmers in the area”.
Tasting notes: Lychee, Pineapple, Jazmin
We would like to send a big Thank You to Nomad for sourcing and roasting delicious coffee!
Post by Federico
This week our offered coffees were roasted by Five Elephant Coffee Roasters in Berlin.
We chose three coffees:
We are offering their Ethiopia, Biftu Gudina as espresso:
“For the past four years we have been purchasing coffee from the Agaro Region of Western Ethiopia, particularly from Biftu Gudina because of its complex balance of spices and delicate plum sweetness. For the last two years this coffee has stood out on our cupping tables, with its uniqueness and exceptional quality”.
We are offering two of their coffees as Filter coffee: (1) Colombia, Dos Quebradas and, (2) Brazil, Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza.
As Five Elephant describes their coffee from Colombia, “The name of Daimes Polanía Tovar’s finca translates to “two springs”. He says that these waters once held gold and he feels fortunate to have found this property with its golden waters because, before, when he lived in the lowlands, he wasn’t getting any of his coffee into Cadefihuila’s (our allied cooperative in Huila) microlot program. This lot is the first they have accepted and he is rightly proud. We thank him for his hard work and determination”.
Five Elephant describes their involvement with Silvia and the production of their Brazilian Coffee: “Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza in the Mococa region of Brazil is owned by Silvia Barretto and her husband Marcos Croce, who along with their son Felipe, manage the farm. This year we had an active role in some new production techniques, helping Felipe Croce process this coffee as a Washed and fermenting it for 72 hours, before drying it for 15 days on raised beds. To say that we are proud to roast this coffee is an understatement”.
Five Elephant does a superb job of selecting intricate and unique coffees. We’d like to send them a big thank you for allowing us to offer their coffee at Djäkne!
Post by Federico
This week we have four Roasters on the shelf: HayB from Krakow, Poland, Root & Branch from Belfast, Ireland, Five Elephant from Berlin, Germany, and Nomad from Barcelona, Spain.
The Coffee offering from the Roasters:
Ethiopia, Boji (Espresso)
Flavor: Black tea, magnolia and peach with citric acidity
Brazil Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza
Flavor: Cacao, Pineapple & Tropical Acidity
Colombia: Dos Quebradas
Flavor: Lychee, candy apple and macadamia nut
Guatemala, Huehuetenago: Erika Sanchez (Espresso)
Flavor: Raspberry Delicates, Milk Chocolate, Blueberries
Ethiopia, Agaro: M. Abakeno
Flavor: Peach, Honey, Black Tea
Rwanda, Muhondo: Gekene
Flavor: Red Grapefruit, Rose Jam, Caramel
Bolivia, La Paz: Benito Huallpa
Flavor: Blackberries, Milk Chocolate, Grapefruit
Rwanda, Huye: Simbi
Flavor: Tangerine, Apricot, Orange Blossom, Honey
Ethiopia, Jimma: Duromina
Flavor: Blueberry, Strawberry, Lavender
Kenya, Kirinyaga: Faith Estates
Flavor: Lychee, Pineapple, Jazmin
Root and Branch:
Nicaragua, Dipilito: Finca San Ramon
Flavor: Milk Chocolate, Dried Apricot, Lavender, and Green Tea
El Salvador: La Independencia
Flavor: Muscavado, Cacao, Violets, Peaches
Ethiopia, Guji: Uraga
Flavor: Black Tea, Papaya, Red Fruit
Indonesia, Panta Musara: Hendra
Flavor: Grapefruit, Cranberry, Nutmeg and Honey
Wishing everyone a pleasant week & Hope that you come through for a cup!
This week our coffee comes from CRNO ZRNO (the Black Seed) in Ljubljana, Slovenia. This week we will be featuring the unique terroir of coffee originating in Colombia. CRNO ZRNO focuses on emphasizing how the flavor inherent to a coffee relates to its environment. As CRNO ZRNO notes, “Terroir, this intimate relationship between flavour and landscape, is highlighted by the work of extraordinary coffee farmers from one of the most biodiverse ecosystems of the world” (link below). The goal at CRNO ZRNO is to feature the terroir of Colombian coffee. The uniqueness of CRNO ZRNO’s project may be thought of like this: just as the terroir of wine comes from grapes, the terroir of coffee comes from cherries.
The novelty of CRNO ZRNO is tasted across five of their Colombian coffees. In the ‘specialty coffee world’ Colombia is a source of Single Origin coffee. Colombia is an origin in so far that the coffee plant fruits in Colombian soil. First, as the coffee bush grows, the environmental conditions of the farm are the source of nutrients influencing the flavors imparted to the coffee cherries. The fruit of the coffee bush is a cherry and in each cherry grows two seeds which are roasted into coffee beans. To be clear, one must realize how unique it is that the coffee bush is a fruiting plant which, like all other plants, is influenced by its surrounding environment. No two plants grow in the same soil at the same time, nor are any two cherry seeds identical. In this way, understanding the intricate and delicate process of how any coffee develops is the work of a barista. In this manner, Alexander, the owner of CRNO ZRNO, is making the dream of the specialty coffee industry and baristas come to life: portray the terroir of coffee.
Below the following image are descriptions of each coffee from CRNO ZRNO’s website. To visually translate the discussion of ‘the terroir of coffee’ to the packaging of each coffee CRNO ZRNO has decoratively illustrated their bags in an educative manner in order to showcase the different coffee regions which each coffee is grown. I have taken the descriptions of each coffee from CRNO ZRNO’s website because Alex excellently portrays the essence of each farm.
“Beneath the shadows of the beautiful Nevado del Huila, lies the small town of Gaitania, home to fifty coffee growers responsible for El Jordan. The influence of this active volcano has given this region volcanic soils and microclimates to grow outstanding coffee. Its fertile lands and mild climate, combined with a strong dedication, produce a unique cup profile. Despite insecurity challenges, due to guerrilla presence in the region for over four decades, these coffee growers have always grown their coffee with pride and care. Caravela, our logistic partner, started working with El Jordan on 2003 after seeing the excitement to produce high quality coffee. Since then, they have implemented diverse training projects to work with them and help maximize the potential on coffees. As a consequence, some of its members have been Cup of Excellence finalists several times. A coffee with a distinct character. Bright sparkling citric acidity reminiscent of grapefruit and peach is complemented with caramel and toasted almond notes. Its velvety and chocolaty body along with a long refreshing finish makes it an all day coffee”.
El Jordan presents notes of Grapefruit, peach, caramel, and toasted almond.
“Located in the southwest of Colombia, in the province of Nariño, near the town of Sandona. Its owner, Gregorio Arnulfo Botina, won the Colombian Cup of Excellence Award in 2005, and this is due to the special taste of grains grown on volcanic soil along with tropical plants and fruits, including bananas. It is our most versatile coffee as it is excellent as an espresso, filter, or cold brew. This is due to the "conditions" in which coffee grows, the Caturra variety predominating, and in the brewed coffee we can taste and smell chocolate, dried fruits, cherries, all of which round off the silky texture. The link can still see how this plantation looks from the air: vimeo.com/107816199
El Aguacate presents notes of chocolate, dried fruit and cherry.
“For those of you who have already discovered the charm of cold brew, this bag of grains is the perfect choice. The village of Nabusimake, the center of the Native American community of Arhuaca, produces coffee with a woody aroma and aroma that will especially attract cold tones of whiskey and refreshing citric acid. The composition of the earth and the way it is processed give the coffee from the Sierra Nevada mountains a slight taste of the beautiful and peaceful nature that surrounds it. Enjoy the taste of dried fruit, green tea and orange leaves with a hint of bitter chocolate with coffee from the slopes of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the world's highest seaside mountain range”.
Sierra Nevada presents notes of woodyness, dried fruit, green tea, orange leaves, and chocolate.
Just a year ago, Juan Porras was the official coffee maker for Nesspresa. When this Swiss multinational terminated contracts with all growers in the province of Antioquia, it also threatened the existence of Porras' El Balcón farm. But Juan Porras chose to persevere and continue to raise production standards. This has produced coffee beans that have scored an outstanding 85 points in the SCAA (American Specialty Coffee Association) rating system. Juan Porras's coffee, which grows on the slopes of the Jericó Mountains in Antioquia at more than 1950 meters above sea level, has a creamy body and medium persistent acidity. The sweet aroma of cedar and almonds and the taste of honey and molasses give the cup a balanced and vibrant profile. We are pleased to bring you one of the top coffee representatives from the province of Antioquía, the cradle of Colombian coffee.
El Balcón presents notes of cedar, almond, honey, and molasses.
Puerto Alegre will be featured as both Filter and Espresso.
“Puerto Alegre is a farm located in the municipality of Pijao in Quindío, one of the regions part of the Cultural Landscape of Coffee protected by Unesco as a World Heritage. The farm is owned for 80 years by the family Lopez, passed on to 4 brothers in 2005 who separated the farm in two parts. The main varietal cultivating is Castillo, however the Lopez brothers are exploring with new varietals such as Geisha and Java. They also plant Platano trees inside the coffee plantation. The coffee we are offering is dried for 25 days on movable raised beds with partial sun exposure during daytime with good weather. During night time when temperature drops and relative humidity increases the drying beds are stored inside the production building.
Jairo and Cesar studied in the school with María Mercedez Grajales who is the owner of Colombian Spirit, the logistic company in charge to source, prepare and export the coffee to their warehouse in Germany”.
Puerto Alegre presents notes of cherry, stone fruits, almonds, and caramel.
In addition to our brewed coffee and espresso we will be offering a Cold Brew from CRNO ZRNO. There are many ways to brew cold-brew. The Toddy and Kyoto are the most common methods. The Toddy steeps the dry coffee in water for 14-18 hours (link below). The kyoto slowly drips room temp water over dry grounds for 8-12 hours (link below). Nevertheless, this cold brew from CRNO ZRNO is a bottled collaboration with 25grams (link below)!
We would like to send a big thank you to Alexander at CRNO ZRNO!
Next time you swing through Slovenia, swing through his beautiful shop and taste Colombia!
Post by Federico
This week we’re going further than we’ve ever gone to find a Roaster. We’ve traveled to Athens, Greece to taste coffee roasted by Taf.
Taf sources Single Estate coffee. Taf notes, “Single estate is a coffee that originates from a specific farm, an individual producer/grower, famous for its high quality and for the value that it creates without any negative effects to third persons”. At Djäkne, our fascination with coffee focuses on the unique flavors of Single Origin coffee - Origin denoting how the environment of a growing region influences flavor (i.e. the terroir of a coffee farm) and Single Estate coffee adds a second aspect to our Coffee fascination. The term ‘Estate’ lends a voice to the commerce which provides the architectural structure of the coffee industry. Estate speaks to not only the literal estate which a coffee was grown on but also to the transactions and various points of trade a coffee passes through as a global commodity. In short, the coffee was Roasted in Greece by Taf, but the seeds roasted were grown on specific Estates located elsewhere.
Taf crafts coffee. The craft of coffee is exhibited in and by flavors which arrive in the cup. Taf’s approach to Coffee focuses upon quality. The discussion of Quality is difficult, but by quality we are speaking of characteristics which compose the intrinsic flavor of a coffee. The culture of specialty coffee celebrates quality by discussing the flavors of coffee which taste like fruits, herbs, nuts, spices and floral fragrances - flavors which are more than just the generic ‘coffee’ taste. In this manner, ‘Taf’s objective is to communicate the new coffee culture and to transfer the knowledge for high quality coffee’. A ‘high quality coffee’ is a coffee which has a bouquet of aroma and tasting notes and, to be said simply, the more flavors a coffee presents the higher its quality. Taf - a roaster of high quality coffee - roasts in a manner which expresses the subtle qualities inherent to a coffee. Everything amounts to the experience of flavor, or, better still, to the phenomena of flavor which burst from a cup of coffee.
We will be offering three coffees from Taf’s seasonal offerings.
Gitesi is located in the Karongi District of Rwanda’s Western Province. After being hand-picked from the tree, the coffee-cherry seeds were given to the Coffee Washing Station (CWS). This Washing Station is near to the farmers and its proximity holds two complimentary benefits. The first is that the quality of the coffee doesn’t diminish from having to be transported a far distance. The second is a result of the first benefit, with the retained quality the farmers are compensated for the quality of their beans. The washing station opened in 2005 and became fully-operational in 2010 which allows the farmers of the Kopakika association to sell their beans and be ‘sourced’ as specialty coffee. This coffee is of the Bourbon varietal. The Bourbon varietal is, as the institute for World Coffee Research notes, “One of the most culturally and genetically important Coffea arabica varieties in the world, known for excellent quality in the cup at the highest altitudes” (link below). After wet and dry processing the notes of this coffee are floral, sweet candy, pepper, caramel, and black tea in the finish.
Nicaragua, Las Delicias
In 2017, this coffee was 4th runner up for a Cup of Excellence award. The COE award is “the most prestigious competition and auction for high quality coffees. The level of scrutiny that Cup of Excellence coffees undergo is unmatched anywhere in the specialty coffee industry” (link below). A unique aspect of this coffee is it being a Java varietal. The Java varietal caught its name when they coffee plant was brought from Ethiopia to the Indonesian island of Java by the Dutch. Then, in the early 90’s, the variety found its way into Central America (namely, Costa Rica, Panama and Nicaragua). A short name for this variety is JavaNica, “an interesting alternative to the Geisha, which high cup quality but is more resilient for small farmers with better tolerance of coffee leaf rust and CBD” (link below). With a name that alludes to dark notes, this cup actually presents tasting notes of white tea, grapes, peach, and citrus.
Espresso - Costa Rica, Granitos De Ortiz Esperanza
The Martinez Calderon family owns the micromill ‘Granitos De Ortiz’. This mill processes coffees from five farms: the 2000 Ortíz (2000 masl), the 1900 Ortíz (1900 masl), la Granadilla (1800 masl), la Casa (1750 masl), and the Nery (1700 masl). The varietals of this coffee are Red & Yellow Catuai. Catuai is a cross between the highly productive Mundo Novo variety and the compact Caturra variety. Together, these two give the Catuaí a ‘dwarf’ character and a high productivity. The Red and Yellow are the colors which the cherry of this plant may be, Catuaí has two ‘types’. Nonetheless, the Catuaí comes from the term ‘multo mom’ in the Guarani language, meaning ‘very good’. In the coffee world this translates to knowing that Catuaí delivers a reliably balanced and flavorful cup of coffee. The flavors of this coffee are noted as red fruits, plum, and toffee. Now part of this I will lend to the coffee varietal and impact of origin, yet Costa Rica is known for their experimental processing methods which place the country at the forefront of coffee innovations. This coffee is the Black Honey method (link below). The two methods of coffee processing discussed are Natural and Washed and, the honey processing method lands between these two methods. The coffee fruit is not entirely washed from the cherry seed nor is the fruit flesh left around the seed when dried. The honey method leaves some of the flesh on but not all and the ‘black’ note hints towards the fact that this coffee is dried in the shade. Very excited to have be serving this coffee as espresso!
We would like to extend a big thank you to Taf Coffee!
post by Federico
Continuing to explore the Roasters of Europe, we saunter down the rustic and cozy streets of Leuven, Belgium and arrive at Mok Specialty Coffee Roastery & Bar
Their message is clear: experience coffee.
Coffee is roasted batch by batch. A batch of coffee is the volume of green coffee cherry seeds which will enter the roaster, roast, and ‘drop-out’ of the roaster as coffee beans. To unleash the flavor of coffee Mok roasts on the elegant Geisen W15 (link below). This machine allows Roasters to focus on the tasting profile of each single origin coffee. With the W15, a Batch of coffee to be roasted may enter the roaster anywhere between 500g to 15kg. The variance in the batch size allows a roaster to aim high and low - High in the sense of keeping quality while keeping in step with the demand for roasted coffee and Low in the sense of focusing upon the intricate molecules and processes constituent of Flavor. As Mok notes, “we roast in small batches of 10 - 15kg. Roasting in such small volumes allows us to fully control the roasting process, making sure that the tasting profile of the bean is just right”. We are very excited to be featuring the delicious coffee from Mok this week!
We have chosen three coffees from Mok: one to be Espresso, one for Filter and one as Whole Bean.
Filter - Ethiopia Dimtu Tero Farm
Ethiopia is regarded as the Origin of coffee origins. When I began drinking coffee I identified coffee with the names of generic coffee-blends or style of roasts. I never tasted coffee from Ethiopia - I did not know how the flavor of a coffee could be fierce and delicate ... the flavors of this cup are exactly that.
Mok’s Ethiopia hails from the the Dimtu Tero Farm of the Guji region. As an origin growing coffee, Ethiopia is known for its altitude. At high altitudes coffee plants undergo an environmental stress, lack of oxygen, and this contributes to the small bean sizes which are characteristic of Ethiopian coffee. The Guji region sits 1800 - 2100 meters above sea-level (masl) and the variety of this coffee from the Dimtu Tero Farm is denoted as Heirloom. However, this notion of Heirloom coffee from Ethiopia sheds light on a ‘grey area’. On the one hand, as the legend goes, Ethiopia is the birthplace of Coffee. In this case, Heirloom could be understood as the original or wild-type plant from which the other varietals stem. On the other hand, one does not know with absolute certainty which lineage 'the original' coffee comes from (Bourbon or Typica strains). Heirloom, in this second instance, means that the coffee tastes delicious but its origin remains obscure (link below). All in all, Ethiopian coffee is flavorful and delicious - the experience begins with floral bouquets and lasts within the lingering notes of bitter-sweetness. The notes of this coffee are: floral, lime zest, caramel and vanilla . . .
Espresso - Kenya Gakuyu-ini AA
To serve this coffee as espresso was a recommendation of the Roaster. The trick to drinking espresso is in understanding how to approach the demitasse and to have a way of processing the uneasiness of intense flavor. Unlike a shot of rail tequila, there are layers to espresso. The crema, the body, and the heart (link below). First, Inhale. Smell the aroma rising from the tiny cup. Second, Stir. Three strokes then place the spoon down to watch the colors of the layers in the shot intermingle, observe the oranges, yellows, and dark red. Third, Sip. Allow the beverage to hit the tip of your tongue and collide against each taste bud. Think of espresso more like mezcal - throbbing with flavor and depth. The soil of this Kenya was fertilized from a nearby Volcano and the demitasse is erupting with notes of rhubarb, blood orange and juniper.
Whole Bean - Guatemala El Zapote
We thank Mok for roasting something special.
In the coffee world there is the legend of the Gesha. This coffee is not the same as a Geisha in Japanese culture, however, what the two ‘Geishas’ have in common is how they entertain the mind … they are spectacular upon the senses - Sensational. The Gesha of the coffee world arose within Panama. It was discovered on the cupping table because - for some reason - this varietal stood-apart from the other varieties (link below). How does this coffee stand out from the rest? To be said simply, the Jasmine and Chamomile flavors of this coffee were only known as tasting notes in Ethiopian coffees. The experience of the Panamanian Gesha tasting like an Ethiopian coffee ignited discussions of ‘the limit’ of coffee’s flavor and how the varieties of the coffee plant intermingle with their environment (i.e. the terroir of coffee). Shortly after the discovery of the Gesha - and, the parallel conversations of terroir in regards to coffee - the legend started to spread along with the planting of this variety throughout Central America. Just as Ethiopia is the Origin of coffee, Panama is the origin of Gesha. There are two things which make this coffee from Mok unique. First, this is a Gesha which was grown in Guatemala, not in Panama. Second, the seeds went through Natural processing. The main difference between Natural processing and washed processing is that the seeds are left within the coffee cherry to dry. Together, these flavors (the Gesha varietal and Natural processing) contribute flavors which are the most influential to people who want to experience a coffee that taste more than "just coffee". To quote how Mok experienced this coffee, “For this lot cherries are picked, sorted & dried on raised beds for 25 days, then rested for a further 30 days. When cupping we were stunned how clean this natural is, the final cup is so delicate & juicy, its seriously hard to put down.”
Post by Federico